The History of Men In Skirts
In November of 2020, Vogue published an article with Harry Styles titled “Playtime With Harry Styles”. In the groundbreaking photoshoot, Harry was shown wearing a skirt. Recently, more and more men have been embracing skirts; many high fashion shows have sent men down the runway wearing them. The fluidity of fashion is changing with Gen Z.
The narrative that skirts are feminine and pants are masculine is fairly new. Skirts were a part of the menswear wardrobe for many ancient civilizations. The history of men in cloth wraps, skirts, tunics, robes, and other non-pant items is vast and ancient. According to an exhibition article at the MET, “Skirts worn in ancient Greece and Rome projected the ideals of youth and virility, a form of hyper-masculinity that is also projected by the Scottish kilt. As the exhibition reveals, the kilt has proved to be one of the most potent, versatile, and enduring skirt forms.” The skirts were cheap, yet effective, so why did men stop wearing them?
The 19th century was when men stopped wearing skirts. The French Revolution played an integral part in this change. Colorful and flamboyant styles were cut off when simpler, plainer, and more elegant clothing began to dominate the market as it reflected the large gap of class difference in France. Trousers and pants were favored over skirts to signify social standing. Trousers then spread to Europe, and trousers began to be associated with masculinity, and skirts were associated with femininity.
Since then, a man wearing a skirt has been considered taboo. On the other hand, campaigns promoting women wearing pants in the 20th century were well-received. However, there has not been a notable campaign for men to wear women's clothes. It should be noted that there are some instances in menswear where the skirt is a part of a culture of religion. For example, kilts are a traditional garment for Scottish men.
Unfortunately, the stereotype against men wearing feminine clothing was a social stigma that revolved mainly around homophobia and the idea that only queers would dress in a more ‘feminine style’. Even though notes of it are prominent, this toxic mindset is slowly disappearing in today’s society.
Recently, there has been a major increase in men dressed in feminine clothing. For example, in February 2021 Burberry’s Riccardo Tisci said “I want to celebrate the freedom of expression,” when he unveiled his menswear-focused collection, which featured pleated skirts and shirt dresses.
Similarly, dresses and skirts have been included in the autumn/winter collections of brands like Stefan Cooke, and Ludovic de Saint Sernin. Another major shift in the rise of skirts was when Jaden Smith wore a skirt in one of Louis Vuitton’s 2016 campaigns. Additionally, celebrities such as BTS, Prince, and Billy Porter have been seen wearing skirts.
Christina Zervanos, the head of Public Relations at the gender-neutral clothing shop ‘The Phluid Project’ said “Generation Z has rejected the societal restraints previously put upon them and demanded we look beyond the binary.”
Skirts in menswear were a norm in ancient times; many wore them in their daily lives without much of a thought. All of a sudden, fashion norms were flipped upside down, and they were seen as ‘taboo’ and ‘shameful’ for men to wear. Now, it seems that men are breaking out of social norms and truly expressing themselves. As The Guardian states: “The trend is indicative of how the pandemic has unshackled men from their dress codes. And what’s more freeing to your legs than a skirt?”
Sources:
1. Playtime With Harry Styles, Hamish Bowles/Vogue
https://www.vogue.com/article/harry-styles-cover-december-2020
2. How Harry Styles Became the Face of Gender Neutral Fashion, Priya Elan/The Guardian
3. The History of Men & Skirts, JR Thrope/Bustle
https://www.bustle.com/p/the-history-of-men-skirts-58088
4. Bravehearts: Men in Skirts, The MET
https://www.metmuseum.org/press/exhibitions/2003/bravehearts-men-in-skirts
5. Why Don’t More Men Wear Skirts?, Material Visions/The Conversation
https://theconversation.com/why-dont-more-men-wear-skirts-21899
6. Men in Skirts, Women in Suits: Fashion Goes Genderqueer/International Business Times
https://www.ibtimes.com/men-skirts-women-suits-fashion-goes-genderqueer-1952772
